Materials
- - Frankie One Piece PDF Sewing Pattern
- - 1.5 yards swimwear fabric
- - 1/4" swimwear elastic
- - Cutting tool like scissors or rotary cutter
- - Serger and/or sewing machine with a zig zag stitch
Frankie One Piece Written Directions
Choose Your Bust
You'll notice your pattern download comes with two different zip files- one for a standard bust, and one labeled DD+. If your underbust-to-bust measurement has a difference of 5-6+" you may decide to make the DD+ version, which includes a larger dart.
Download whichever file you think will fit best!
Choose Your Coverage
There are two coverage options- full coverage and cheeky coverage. Pick which coverage you'd like, then find the pieces needed for this coverage. Find the "Pieces Included" section of the pattern for an outline of what the pieces are. To print only the coverage option you need, find the "Assembling the Pattern" section which will have page numbers for each coverage.
Printing & Assembling the Pattern
Before printing, open up the US Letter or A4 version of the pattern to review the initial instruction pages. Note that if you're using A0 you will need to access the US Letter or A4 version to see these pages. Review the information in each section carefully. Then, when you're ready to print you will visit the "How to Print" section. As mentioned, this pattern is layered so that you can select just one size at a time. Please see this article on how to use that function. You are encouraged to use the layering feature to make cutting much easier!
Once you've printed, keep the pages in the order they printed. Visit the "Pattern Assembly" section of the file to view a map of how each page should be laid out. Then, place your pages down in order according to the map. You should start to see the pattern pieces come together. Once you know your pages are laid in the correct order, trim the page borders and begin taping your pages together to form your pattern pieces.
Pattern Pieces & Cut List
Waist Ties (optional)
1 - Waist Tie (cut 4 mirrored)
**Pieces 2-5 are to be cut on the fold**
Moderate Coverage
2 - Front (Cut 2 on fold) If the pattern version you're using has a dart, do not cut it out yet!
3 - Back (Cut 2 on fold)
Cheeky Coverage
4 - Front (Cut 2 on fold) If the pattern version you're using has a dart, do not cut it out yet!
5 - Back (Cut 2 on fold)
Prepping the Dart
Complete these steps only if you're making the darted version of the pattern. Not all options include a dart. If you are not making the dart, skip to the next section.
Step 1
The dart on the pattern is the seamline, so this is why we didn't cut away the dart when cutting our pieces. So now place the pattern onto your fabric and use a washable marker to trace the dart onto both your outer and your lining pieces.
Step 2
Then match the dart legs with right sides together. Using a straight stitch, sew each dart. Then, trim off the excess fabric.
Main Construction
Step 1
Match fronts with fronts and backs with backs, right sides together. Sew along the armholes, neckline, and leg holes and attach elastic to these same seams.
Before starting, we recommend you use a basting stitch on these seams first!
Use a 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch on a serger if available to you, otherwise you can use any stretch stitch, like a zig zag.
If you'd like, you can start off by doing a basting stitch (a long straight stitch with no backstitching) to tack these seams together before you sew your final stitch. This essentially replaces pinning, and it really helps to make sure everything is lined up.
Then you will use either an overlock stitch or a zig zag stitch, attaching elastic at the same time. If available, use an elastic foot. Do not stretch the elastic, you want it go sew on evenly (unless you prefer it to be scrunched).
If you don't have an elastic foot it may be easier to break this process into two steps- first sew the seam with your overlock or zig zag stitch, then come back over the seam a second time, this time sewing on the elastic.
For more information on how to sew elastic, click here. That video series will answer your most common elastic questions, and it includes demonstrations on how to sew it!
Step 2
Take your front piece and flip it all the way to the right side. Then, using a basting stitch, sew closed the strap openings, gusset, and both sides. This will make it easier to sew in the next step.
Step 3
Insert your front piece inside of your back piece, making sure right sides are together. Sew across all four layers on the shoulder straps, gusset, and both sides. Use a stretch stitch or a straight stitch for this step, then trim off the excess afterwards.
Step 4
Now we need to take our suit to the right side. To do this, take a seam ripper and open up a 2-3" hole somewhere along an existing seam. Through this hole, take the entire suit to the right side.
Step 5
Finish off the hole with a top stitch, or an invisible stitch by hand.
That completes the Frankie One Piece! Share your final result on Instagram using #EdgewaterFrankie