Hudson Top Written Directions

The Hudson Top is our first underwire pattern, and the construction technique is very unique. Most lingerie and underwire swimwear is made without worrying about concealed seams. This technique is unique because there are just two necessary top stitches. All the rest of the seams are fully concealed, clean, and silky soft.

In this post, we will be going over some important information about the Hudson Top along with written instructions for your reference. Below, we've included the link to the video tutorial if you prefer to watch and listen.

Materials

-Hudson Top PDF Pattern

-1/2 yard of swimwear fabric

-1/4" swimwear elastic

-1" swimwear elastic

-Overlock machine OR zig-zag stitch on a regular sewing machine

There are two special materials to add to this list:

-Underwire channeling: Underwire channeling is used as a casing for bra wires. It is necessary to use channeling in order for the wire in the top to be comfortable and safe. You can find underwire channeling in all different places, but below we've included a few suggestions:

1. Black 3/8" underwire channeling (The Bra Makery)

2. White Dyeable 3/8" underwire channeling (The Bra Makery)

3. White Dyeable 3/8" underwire channeling (Tailor Made Shoppe)

-Underwires: The underwires provide the structure for the top and give support to the breasts. For the Hudson Top, we are currently communicating with wire suppliers to find a custom solution for the Hudson Top, as it has a unique shape that's different than many bras.

We've created a spreadsheet so you can compare different underwires and see which you think would be best: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-1dEza14YTqQwyUgiRTHWvqtURwY_ZqN-0eFDR8O_bI/edit?usp=sharing

The best possible option is buying longer underwires and trimming them down to create a custom size. If you choose to go with this route, please wear eye protection when trimming and take all necessary precautions.

Ultimately Edgewater Avenue WILL provide custom underwires for the Hudson Top, but we ask for your patience as we go through the development process.

Step 4

Now we're ready for construction. Match each piece with right sides together.

For Pieces 1 & 2, the bust pieces, sew along the neckline and the shoulder seam. Leave the bottom edge and the strap opening untouched. Attach elastic to these same areas.

For Pieces 3 & 4, the side pieces, sew along the top and bottom seams, but leave the sides open. Attach elastic to these same areas.

For Pieces 5 & 6, the back straps, sew along the top and bottom seams as well as the thinner side at the end of the tie. Leave the larger side open. You may decide to attach elastic to these same areas, however many of our testers preferred to forgo elastic in the back straps.

For Piece 7, the center piece, fold it in half widthwise so it becomes shaped like a trapezoid. Sew along the top raw edges, but leave each side open. No need for elastic.

For the straps, fold them in half lengthwise and sew along the raw edges. In the next step we will use the 1" elastic in the straps, but for now sew the straps without it.

Step 5

Now it's time to make the straps. Take your 1" elastic and cut it to the same size as the strap.

With your strap still inside out, place the 1" elastic on top. Using a basting stitch or long straight stitch, sew one end and attach the elastic to the strap. Using a loop turner, insert it through the open end of the strap and up through the basting stitch until you reach the other end. From here, use the loop turner to turn the entire strap and elastic to the right side.

Straighten out the elastic and fabric, then use a straight stitch to secure the elastic and strap on each end.

Step 6

Now that the straps are finished, we can insert them into the bust pieces. To do this, take each bust piece while still inside out. Insert each strap through the open bottom edge of the bust piece and place it into the strap opening. Pin, and then sew straight across to secure the strap in place. Do this with both bust pieces and straps.

Step 7

Take the bust pieces to the right side. Now that the straps are finished, use a basting stitch to close up the bottom edge of each bust piece.

Step 8

Next we're going to attach the sides (Pieces 3 & 4) to the back straps (Pieces 5 & 6). Match left and right sides first. Take the side piece and bring it to the right side. Ensure that the back strap is still inside out. Then, place the side piece into the back strap, ensuring right sides are together. Sew across to secure. Do this with both sides.

To take the pieces back to the right side, we will need to make a hole. It is recommended you make this hole where you plan to have your shoulder straps connect. We recommend making the hole 1-2" in from the seam on the back strap. Then, through this hole take the back strap/side piece combo all the way to the right side.

Use a straight stitch to sew the opening of the side pieces closed. This will make it easier to attach it to the bust piece later on.

Step 9

Now we'll focus on the center piece, Piece 7. We need to ensure that this piece does not stretch, otherwise the cups will be too far apart. For this we are going to use a bit of our underwire channeling.

Many lingerie supply stores carry "stabilization fabric" which is intended to be used fo this purpose. However, in order to reduce the amount of materials needed for this top, we will just be using the channeling in this tutorial. They will serve the same purpose- preventing the center piece from stretching.

Take your center piece to the right side. Then, cut a small amount of underwire channeling (enough to span the width of the bottom of the center piece). Place the channeling so it's flush with the bottom of the center piece, at the widest width of the trapezoid shape.

Using a straight stitch, stitch the open edges of the center piece closed, securing the channeling in as you do so. Trim the excess if necessary.

Step 10

All of our pieces are now prepped, so we can start to put them all together to create the top.

Focus on one side at a time, then we'll repeat with the other.

First, take one bust piece and the corresponding side/back strap. Match them with right sides together along the outer portion of the bust piece. Then, using a straight stitch, stitch them together.

Take your center piece and follow the same steps, this time placing the center piece right sides together along the inner portion of the bust piece.

After this step you should have half of the top assembled.

Step 11

Now we can attach the underwire channeling to the first bust piece. Keep the pieces laid so that the bust piece has right sides together with the center piece and the side/back strap. They should be flipped up.

Take your channeling and place it so it just covers the raw edges of the bottom line. The plush side (right side) of the channeling should be facing up. Using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, sew the casing to the raw edge, far enough inwards to cover up the raw edges. You'll only be sewing on one side of the channeling.

Once that's completed, flip the top so it's fully at the right side and can be laid flat. You'll also flip the channeling up so it is laid against the lining side of the bust piece.

Going back in with a straight stitch, sew the other side of the channeling. This stitch will be visible from the right side of the top, so take your time to get it perfect. It can help to use your fingers to stretch the excess fabric on the bust piece while sewing as way to ensure none of it gets trapped in the channel where you're sewing and cause bunching or bubbling.

Step 12

Repeat the same steps in Step 10 with the other side. Once it's time to attach the center piece, you'll follow the same process but this time the other cup and side/back strap will all be attached to it. Follow the same steps anyways.

You will also sew the channeling onto the other bust piece in the same way it was done in Step 11.

This will successfully assemble the entire top,.

Step 13

Now we can put our underwires in. Take each underwire and slide them in between the layers of the underwire channeling. Yes, there's layers! Don't make the common mistake of placing the underwire between the swimwear fabric and the channeling. The channeling is actually a tube and is meant to fully encase the wires.

If you find that your wires are too long, you may have to trim them. If you do this, please be sure to wear eye protection and follow a tutorial on how to finish the wires off properly. Linked here is a tutorial on how to do this.

Once you're satisfied with the placement of the wires, trim the excess channeling, and then use a straight stitch back and forth a few times to close off each end of the channeling.

Step 14

The final step is attaching the shoulder straps into the back. Remember the holes we made in order to take the back straps to the right side? Those will now come in handy. Place your shoulder straps inside each hole, then use a straight stitch over the top to secure the straps in place.

Although this method is not using concealed seams, it is much faster and more efficient. If you choose to make the straps have concealed seams, you'll need to make another hole somewhere along the back strap, then sew down the straps from the inside. You'll need to finish off the additional hole you made, either with a top stitch or straight stitch. Because you're making an additional hole anyways, it might make more sense to top stitch the straps instead. However, if you're going for a certain look or if you have a better idea for a more concealed hole, go for it!

That completes the Hudson Top! If you have any additional questions, you can reach out to us by email at hello@edgewaterave.com or post in the Facebook Group, where we have over 3,500+ members who love to give advice and answer questions.