Amelia Bottoms Written Directions

Materials

- Cutting tool like scissors or rotary cutter

- Overlock machine OR zig-zag stitch on a regular sewing machine

Printing & Assembling the Pattern

Choose either US Letter, A4, or A0 format, all of which are included inside your download links. Open up your desired file and read through the initial instruction pages for more information on how to print and assemble this pattern. You will need to choose your coverage option- either cheeky coverage or full coverage. Inside the direction pages there is a map for which piece number corresponds to which coverage option. Note that if you're using the A0 verison you will need to pull up either the US Letter or A4 formats in order to access the direction pages.

This pattern is layered, meaning you can print out only the size you need. To learn more on how to do this, visit this link: https://bit.ly/3GMWFi6

Print and assemble your pattern according to the provided instructions inside the pattern, then you're ready to begin!

Video Tutorial

This pattern comes with a video tutorial, and we strongly encourage you to use this resource in combination with these written directions. The video will show how to make these bottoms with a combination of concealed seams on the front and foldover seams on the back. These written directions will explain how to do this method as well as how to make these bottoms with concealed seams ("seamless"/reversible style).

You can find the video at the following link: https://youtu.be/jJy5R5fPCd4

Cutting

After you chose your coverage option you should have 3 pattern pieces- the front, back, and the tie piece. In the front and back you will cut 2.

In the tie piece you will cut 2 and then flip the piece and cut another 2. You can fold your fabric and cut 2 at a time, this will help make sure you're able to match the ties with right sides together!

Methods

These instrunctions will show you two different methods for making these bottoms:
1. Fully concealed seams ("seamless"/reversible style) - this is how most Edgewater Bottoms are made. Although the ties make this pattern not reversible, many still prefer the concealed seams for comfort reasons.
2. Foldover seams - this is how swimwear is traditionally made. It is non-reversible and nice and secure. We won't be going over this method but you can watch this video if you prefer to do sew this way and want an idea on how to do it: https://youtu.be/k4VTZp9B9cQ
3. Combination of the 2 - the video tutorial shows this method, and we will include instructions here too. This is the best of both worlds, you get the comfort of concealed seams along the front leg lines and all along the waist, and the security of foldover seams on the bum to keep everything in place.

Concealed Seams

Step 1

The first step for the construction is attaching the lining and outer fabrics together and attaching elastic. Match your fronts with fronts and backs with backs, right sides together. You will sew along the leg holes and waistline, and attach elastic to these same areas.
You will also match your ties with right sides together and sew along both the long edges as well as the short side. No need to attach elastic here.

Before I start fussing with elastic, I’m going to use my favorite trick in the book, which is using a basting stitch before I go and sew my final stitch and add elastic.
A basting stitch is a long straight stitch that is meant to be temporary. It is a "practice" stitch in some ways, allowing you to tack the fabric together before sewing your final stitch. This will yield better results when you go to sew your final stitch! To set your machine to a basting stitch, select a straight stitch and then increase the stitch length as long as your machine will let you. No need to back stitch.
Just make sure if you do a basting stitch to either remove the stitch or break it before putting on your swimsuit, otherwise you’ll start hearing threads snap!
Once I have my fabric tacked together I’m going to switch over to my serger to sew the final seam as well as our elastic. If you don’t have one you can use a zig zag stitch on a regular machine and still make a great swimsuit all the same.
I’m using a 4-thread overlock stitch with a high quality polyester thread, and I am using an elastic foot to attach my elastic at the same time as I sew these layers together. You do not want to stretch your elastic at all, it should be sewn on evenly and without any tension.
If you find it easier, you can first sew the fabric together and then go back and attach elastic separately, with or without an elastic foot.
For more information on how to sew elastic, click here to watch my elastic series on YouTube. There's much more information than can be encompassed here!

Step 2

Now we are going to attach on the ties. First, take the front piece and both the ties all the way to the right side. Take one tie and place the open end along the hip opening. Pin and repeat with the other tie. Then, using any type of stitch, attach the ties down onto the front piece. You can do a basting stitch here, or a regular straight stitch, zig zag, overlock, etc. This is not the final stitch so it doesn't matter at this point!

Step 3

Now we will attach the front and back together. First, tie up your ties or get them out of the way. With the back piece still inside out and the front piece still right side out, insert the front piece inside of the back piece and align it at each of the hips and the gusset. You will sew down each of these seams using a straight stitch or an overlock stitch. Remember there is 1/4" seam allowance, so sew accordingly.

At the hips you will be sewing through 6 layers of fabric from the front, back, and tie pieces. At the gusset you'll be sewing through 4.

If you used a straight stitch, trim off the excess fabric once you're done sewing.

Step 4

It's now time to take this piece to the right side. To do this you will need your seam ripper. Rip a 1-2" hole somewhere along an existing seam. Through this hole, take the bottoms all the way to the right side.

As a final step, finish off the hole with a straight stitch or an invisible stitch by hand.

Combination Seams

Step 1

The first step is sewing our concealed seams. Match your fronts with fronts and backs with backs, right sides together. For the front piece you will sew along the leg holes and waistline, and attach elastic to these same areas.
For the back piece you will only sew and attach elastic to the waistline.
You will also match your ties with right sides together and sew along both the long edges as well as the short side. No need to attach elastic here.

Before I start fussing with elastic, I’m going to use my favorite trick in the book, which is using a basting stitch before I go and sew my final stitch and add elastic.
A basting stitch is a long straight stitch that is meant to be temporary. It is a "practice" stitch in some ways, allowing you to tack the fabric together before sewing your final stitch. This will yield better results when you go to sew your final stitch! To set your machine to a basting stitch, select a straight stitch and then increase the stitch length as long as your machine will let you. No need to back stitch.
Just make sure if you do a basting stitch to either remove the stitch or break it before putting on your swimsuit, otherwise you’ll start hearing threads snap!
Once I have my fabric tacked together I’m going to switch over to my serger to sew the final seam as well as our elastic. If you don’t have one you can use a zig zag stitch on a regular machine and still make a great swimsuit all the same.
I’m using a 4-thread overlock stitch with a high quality polyester thread, and I am using an elastic foot to attach my elastic at the same time as I sew these layers together. You do not want to stretch your elastic at all, it should be sewn on evenly and without any tension.
If you find it easier, you can first sew the fabric together and then go back and attach elastic separately, with or without an elastic foot.
For more information on how to sew elastic, click here to watch my elastic series on YouTube. There's much more information than can be encompassed here!

Step 2

Now we are going to attach on the ties. First, take the front piece and both the ties all the way to the right side. Take one tie and place the open end along the hip opening. Pin and repeat with the other tie. Then, using any type of stitch, attach the ties down onto the front piece. You can do a basting stitch here, or a regular straight stitch, zig zag, overlock, etc. This is not the final stitch so it doesn't matter at this point!

Step 3

Next we will work on our foldover seams on the back. This is a two part process- attaching the elastic and then folding over and top stitching the seam. If you have a coverstitch machine you can do this all in one step, otherwise it might be easier to break it down into two like shown here.
First, take the back piece to the right side. The waistband seam you sewed in Step 1 should be concealed nicely!
Sew and attach elastic to the leg lines. This time you do want to stretch the elastic slightly. You can measure a 1-3% seam reduction, or you can eye it. You want a slight stretch, just enough to be noticeably bunched but not so much that it intensely scrunches. You will attach the elastic onto the lining side.

Now flip the elasticized seam so the elastic is covered. This will bring your outer fabric onto the lining side and will fully cover the elastic you sewed. Using a zig zag stitch, top stitch this seam.
I find it easiest to top stitch this with the lining side face up, this way I can use the flipped edge as a guide as I sew. You will want to use a zig zag stitch that is narrow enough so it can stretch.

Step 4

Now we will attach the front and back together. First, flip your back piece so it's inside out. This will make your leg lines look like concealed seams, but you'll be able to see the waistband seam. On the front piece, tie up your ties or get them out of the way.

With the back piece inside out and the front piece still right side out, insert the front piece inside of the back piece and align it at each of the hips and the gusset. You will sew down each of these seams using a straight stitch or an overlock stitch. Remember there is 1/4" seam allowance, so sew accordingly.

At the hips you will be sewing through 6 layers of fabric from the front, back, and tie pieces. At the gusset you'll be sewing through 4.

If you used a straight stitch, trim off the excess fabric once you're done sewing.

Step 5

It's now time to take this piece to the right side. To do this you will need your seam ripper. Rip a 1-2" hole somewhere along the waist seam. Through this hole, take the bottoms all the way to the right side.

As a final step, finish off the hole with a straight stitch or an invisible stitch by hand.

That completes the Amelia Bottoms!