Dani One Piece Written Directions

Materials

-Dani One Piece PDF Pattern

-1.5 yards of swimwear fabric

-1/4" swimwear elastic

-Regular polyester thread

-Overlock machine

-Regular sewing machine

You will need both a regular sewing machine as well as an overlock machine for this tutorial. If you don't have an overlock machine, you can use a zig zag stitch on a regular sewing machine. Make sure you at least have a regular sewing machine, because we will be using a straight stitch in this tutorial.

*Click here to find direct links to the tools mentioned, including machine recommendations!

Please note that this pattern is more on the advanced side and is not recommended for beginners.


Step 1

Assemble your pattern by cutting out the pieces, taping them together, then cutting out the size you would like to make.


Step 2

Cut your pieces. If you want to make this one piece reversible, make sure to have two different swimwear fabrics to use. In total you’ll cut 2 of each pattern piece, one in each of your fabrics.  

When cutting, you want the waistline of the pattern to be parallel with the grainline of the fabric.

1/4" seam allowance is included in the pattern so there is no need to leave extra unless you prefer to do so.


Step 3

The pattern has an option to add extension bands. In Step 3 we will first go over how to sew without them. Then there will be instructions on how to add the extension bands.

No Bands

Match each bust piece with right sides together, coordinating lining and outer fabrics.

Sew along every edge except for the bottom seam, leave that open.

During this step you will also attach elastic, but just to the sides of each bust piece. There are more instructions on elastic in later steps.

with EXTENSION BANDS (optional)

If you choose to add the extension bands, you will sew the bust pieces differently.

First, make sure you have your 4 extension bands cut to the measurements provided inside the pattern. Match all extension bands and bust pieces with right sides together.

Then, sew along the following areas. For the bust pieces, just sew the sides, and also attach elastic there. Leave the top and bottom edges open.

For the bands, sew on just three of the four sides, leaving one ending open. You may choose whether or not you'd like to attach elastic to these sides.

Take both of the extension bands all the way to the right side, using the edge we left open.

Then, insert each band inside each bust piece. Align them at the top seam, and then sew them down to sure. You may use a straight stitch, zig zag stitch, or overlock stitch.

This will fully secure the extension bands in, and now you can continue the rest of the tutorial following the same directions.


Step 4

For the front bottom piece and the back piece, match front pieces with right sides together.

Sew and attach elastic along the marked areas- the leg holes for the front bottom, and the leg holes and waistline for the back piece. Attach your elastic to these same places.

Notice that the waistline of the front bottom piece is left open! The sides and the gussets for both pieces are also untouched.

We recommend using regular polyester thread and either a 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch. If you don't have an overlock machine, don't worry! You can use a zig zag stitch instead. More on that in this video.

Elastic can be sewn using an elastic foot to sew and attach elastic in one step, but if you don't have one then you can break the process into two steps, first sewing the fabric together and then going back and attaching elastic.

Sewing elastic can be tricky and you might have some questions! To get all the information you need in one place, we recommend watching the elastic series on YouTube. It answers all sorts of questions, goes over how to sew elastic, and also demonstrates some troubleshooting in case you run into problems. You can watch that here: https://bit.ly/3xk2VIJ


Step 5

The next objective is to prep the bust pieces.

First, flip them all the way to the right side.

Here is where it's important that you have a regular sewing machine!

Select a straight stitch on your machine, then adjust the length until it's at the longest it can go. This is a basting stitch, and you'll use this to sew the bottom open edge of both busts pieces. Do not back stitch at the beginning of the seam nor the end, as in the next step we will need these threads to be loose enough to manipulate the fabric.

Now it's time to ruche the bust pieces to get that scrunched up look. To do this, pull at one of the loose threads at the very beginning of your basting stitch. By doing this, you will be able to slide the fabric along the stitch. Begin ruching the fabric to the desired size. There is a width measurement chart inside the pattern.

Once you're happy with the amount of ruching, you'll want to go back over the bottom edge with a tighter straight stitch, securing in the ruching. You will want to back stitch for this one.


Step 6

The bust pieces are now ready to be attached to the front bottom piece. This is why we left the waistline open at first.

With the front bottom still inside out, insert each bust piece inside, aligning the raw edges. Choose how you want them spaced. We recommend spacing them about 2" apart, but this is fully up to you.

Now the objective here is to sew this entire waist seam, securing the bust pieces inside during the process. This can be quite tricky, so you may decide to split up the process. We like to first sew the bust pieces to just one layer of that waistline using a basting stitch.

Then go back and sew the entire waistline with an overlock stitch, securing everything in place. Elastic is optional but encouraged at this seam.

Step 7

The front piece prep is completed, so now it's time to attach the back piece inside the front.

To do this, keep your front bottom piece inside out (yes, the bust pieces are still nestled inside).

Flip your back piece all the way to the right side.

Then, insert your back piece into your front piece, making sure right sides are together. Align the side seams of the back piece to the side seams of the front piece, and same thing with the gussets.

You will then sew across all four layers of fabric to attach the sides and gusset together, which will fully attach the suit together.

Step 8

Now you have the entire completed swimsuit sewn, it's just enclosed inside this front piece. So the next step is taking it to the right side!

Seam rip a 2" hole somewhere along an existing seam on the front bottom piece.

Through this hole, take the suit all the way to the right side.

As a final step, finish off the hole using an invisible stitch or a straight stitch on your sewing machine.


And that completes the Dani One Piece!

If you have questions about sewing or construction, our Facebook group is a fantastic resource for new and experienced sewers alike. You can join here: https://facebook.com/groups/edgewaterave

Thanks for following along with this tutorial, happy sewing!