- 5/8 yard swimwear fabric
- 1" swimwear elastic (optional, to add extra support to shoulder straps)
- Underwires*
*This top is drafted using the Round Underwires from Tailor Made Shop. Select underwires in your bra size.
- Cutting tool like scissors or rotary cutter
- Acrylic ruler (for cutting straps)
- Sewing machine (capable of straight stitch)
- Overlock machine OR zig-zag stitch on a regular sewing machine
Choose either US Letter, A4, or A0 format, all of which are included inside your download links. Open up your desired file and read through the initial instruction pages for more information on how to print and assemble this pattern. Note that if you're using the A0 version you will need to pull up either the US Letter or A4 formats in order to access the direction pages.
This pattern is layered, so see the instruction pages for information on how to use the layer feature so that you can print out only the size you need.
Print and assemble your pattern according to the provided instructions inside the pattern, then you're ready to begin!
This pattern comes with a video tutorial, and we strongly encourage you to use this resource. Some of the techniques in this pattern are better shown versus illustrated, so you may have an easier time by using both the video and written directions. You can find the video at the following link: https://youtu.be/JuMAb7p2nDs
Your pattern includes pieces for a left and right cup. For each cup there are 2 pieces for the lining and 1 piece for outer cup. Cut 1 for each of your lining cup pieces in a regular swim fabric of your choice. Cut 1 in each of your outer cup pieces in the same or a different fabric. Make sure you cut pieces for both the left and right cups!
There is also a pattern piece for the bridge, and you will cut 1 in your outer fabric.
Also when cutting you will want to transfer the pattern markings onto your pieces if you plan to use them. You can do this by snipping into the seam allowance or by using a pen or marker. These notches will help you line up your seams in future steps.
The inner cup has markings at the apex and at the base of the cup. When we get to the outer cup there is a marking at the base of the cup that you’ll be lining up with the inner cup later on.
Not included in the pattern are 4 straps you must cut- 2 long shoulder straps and 2 "tabs" that will be attached to the cup and used as strap channels. Consult the direction pages inside your pattern to see the exact measurements required for these straps.
First we’re going to take care of all our non cup pieces, so our straps, our tabs, and our bridge.
Fold your tabs and straps in half lengthwise with right sides together and sew along the raw edges to make a tube. On the shoulder straps you’re also going to sew one end closed. There is 1/4" allowance.
You can add elastic to the shoulder straps if you'd like. Either 1/4" or even 1" elastic will add support and help the strap stretch well.
*Tip: Tack together your pieces using a basting stitch, which is a long straight stitch that is meant to be temporary. This will yield better results when you go to sew your final stitch!
When you're ready to sew these seams, you can use a 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch with high quality polyester thread. If you don't have a serger you can use a zig zag stitch or any stretch stitch your machine has.
For the bridge you will match together the short sides with right sides together and sew along the raw edges with an overlock or zig zag stitch. Again, no elastic is necessary here. There is 1/4" allowance on this seam.
Now all our accessory pieces are finished up and we’re going to flip all of them to the right side. For the bridge and tabs you can do this by hand, but for the shoulder straps it will be easier to use a loop turner.
Now we're going to focus on the bridge piece once more. We're going to use some underwire channeling to put inside the bridge to prevent it from stretching.
*You could also put a nonstretch fabric inside but this is an easy hack since we already have this channeling on hand!
Insert the channeling inside and align it on the bottom. Then, using a straight stitch, sew each side of the bridge closed, which will sew in your channeling. You will want to sew close to the raw edge, or at the 1/8" mark.
Afterwards you can trim off the excess.
Get your tab pieces out fold them in half once more and sew the two ends together, creating a loop.
I like to break this up into two steps by first sewing the ends closed, then folding the tab in half and sewing it together. This will make it easier to manage sewing through the four layers of fabric.
The last piece of prep we’ll do is sew the remaining open end of our shoulder straps closed. This is going to make it easier to sew the straps into the cup here in a few steps.
Now we’re going to move on to the cup pieces, starting with the lining cup
First flip your upper cup down onto your lower cup with right sides together and sew to join them.
If you used the pattern markings you can use the marks at the apex of the cup to help guide you as you sew this seam.
Use an overlock or zig zag stitch again, with no elastic. Do this with both your left and right lining cups.
Now those inner cups are attached and we are next going to sew the inner and outer cups together. Get our outer cup pieces out and place your inner cup against them with right sides together, lining them up along the top line.
Sew just along the top line, making sure not to sew the strap opening. Here you will use ¼” swimwear elastic. Do this with both your left and right cups.
*It wouldn’t hurt to very slightly stretch the elastic to help it sit nicely on the chest, but that’s up to you
For more information on how to sew elastic, click here. There's much more information than can be encompassed in one tutorial!
Now that our cups are attached we’re going to flip the inner cup out of the way and we’re going to start the steps to create the gathering on the outer cup.
To do this you’re going to sew a basting stitch along either side of the outer cup, starting at the top and then finishing at the bottom. When you do this you’re going to want to back stitch at the top, but don’t back stitch at the bottom as we need to be able to create the gathering effect.
Sew your basting stitch at or inside 1/4" from the raw edge.
*A good tip is doing two basting stitches side by side, which will help you control the gathering easier and keep everything in place as you go
Before we start the actual gathering, we’re going to insert our shoulder strap into the strap opening and sew it down with a straight stitch. Make sure your cup pieces are still inside out, which will match right sides together. There is ¼” of seam allowance. Afterwards I’m going to trim the excess.
Now returning back to the gathering, grab one of the threads at the bottom and then scrunch the fabric to create a gathering effect. You’ll want to concentrate your gathering towards the top of the cup.
There was a pattern marking on the bottom of the inner and outer cup, and you’ll want this part to be matched up. Then the rest is up to you how you’d like to gather the cup, you’ll just want the outer cup to line up with the inner cup along the wire line. Use clips as you go to help keep your gathering in place.
Once you’re happy with the gathering, go back in with a straight stitch and tack all this gathering down.
That finishes the gathering effect, and now we’re going to assemble the top together.
Get out your bridge piece and one tab piece. Place them against one of the cups with right sides together. They should be facing inside the cup, not hanging out.
You can put the tab on the top of the side, or if you want a little better support you should put it a few inches below, which will help keep the wires and cups in place as the top is worn. The bridge can go at the top of the wire line or a little bit below for a different stylistic choice.
Sew the bridge and tab down into place using a straight stich.
Now we’re going to attach on our channeling to this cup. Place the underwire casing with the plush side up onto the right side of the cup, covering the edge. Then use a straight stitch and sew down the inner side of the underwire casing.
Once one side of the casing is down, you’re going to trim the excess seam allowance to help get rid of the bulk.
*Be super careful and slow with this because it’s very easy to accidentally cut into the cup!
Now flip the casing over onto the lining side, and this time we’re going to sew the other side of the casing. Again you will use a straight stitch for this.
*Remember you need to insert a wire inside this casing so make sure you’re not closing it up by sewing too close to the center.
That finishes off one cup and now we’re going to move on to the other!
Place the other side of the bridge onto the remaining cup piece with right sides together, and do the same thing with the remaining tab. Sew the bridge and tab down, using a straight stitch.
Then you can go back and add on your casing, using the exact same steps we did for the first cup
The last step is inserting your wires inside the casing and sewing the casing closed. Remember that this is a tube, so make sure to insert it inside the casing and not in between the casing and the top
Once your wires are in, you can use a straight stitch to sew the casing closed on either side.
Thread your shoulder straps through the tabs either criss cross or straight across, and that completes the Juliet Top!
