-Newport One Piece PDF Pattern
-2 yards of swimwear fabric
-1/4" or 3/8" swimwear elastic
-Regular polyester thread
-Overlock machine OR zig-zag stitch on a regular sewing machine
*Click here to find direct links to the tools mentioned, including machine recommendations!
The pattern comes with 3 different coverage options and 3 sleeve length options. After printing the pattern you will choose which pieces to use for this tutorial.
Once you have your pattern pieces, in total you will cut 4 sleeves, 2 fronts, and 2 backs.
When cutting the sleeves you will want to fold over your fabric and cut 2 sleeves at once, and this will account for both the left and right sleeves. If you choose to cut the sleeves one at a time you will need to flip the pattern piece to account for both sides.
If you're making your surf suit reversible style and using two differnt fabrics you will cut 2 sleeves, 1 front, and 1 back in EACH of your fabrics.
At this time you will also cut two tie straps according to the measurements provided inside the pattern.
First you will sew the darts on each of the bust pieces. To do this, fold the raw edges of the dart and match right sides together. Using either an overlock stitch or a straight stitch, sew 1/4" in from the raw edges to sew the dart in place.
Next we will be sewing the leg holes. Match fronts with fronts and backs with backs, right sides together. Sew along the leg holes and attach elastic at this time.
*For more information on how to sew elastic, watch this YouTube playlist!
Now it's time to sew the wrist section of the sleeves. Match the sleeves with right sides together. You should have 2 left sleeves and 2 right sleeves that line up. The sleeves are not symmetrical so at this step you will need to ensure you've accounted for both left and right sleeves.
Once together, sew the seam at the wrist and attach elastic.
Bring out the two tie straps you've cut, and fold them with right sides together. Sew along the long edge and sew along one end. Elastic is optional.
Now it's time to attach each of the sleeves to the front pieces and back pieces. This can be tricky due to the amount of fabric involved, so you may decide to reference the video tutorial for a visual reference.
Essentially you will want to match each of the sleeve seams to their corresponding sleeve seam on the bodice pieces. Once matched with right sides together you will sew across all 8 of these seams to attach the sleeves.
You may choose to use clear elastic tape as a seam stablizer, but this is fully optional.
Our next objective is to sew the neckline, low back, and attach our tie straps in. To do this we will need to move our piece around.
Reach inside your back piece through it's low back and pull the gusset through until it's to the right side. Then, stuff the back piece back into the front piece and pin at the gusset.
Now we are able to sew the neckline of the front piece and our low back/back piece is fully sandwiched inside.
You may choose to sew the neckline and low back in two separate steps to stay organized, or you can sew them in one step and pull the piece through as you go. With the way the piece is sandwiched, you will be able to fully sew the neckline and low back in this step.
It is highly recommended you first use a basting stitch (which you will remove later) to ensure perfect alignment of the pieces.
Sew the neckline and low back, and attach elastic.
Now take your tie straps to the right side and insert them into each strap opening at the top of the neckline area. Sew them in using a straight stitch or overlock stitch.
Now we will sew down the gusset. If it came unpinned while sewing the neckline/low back, go back and organize your piece so you can sew it. Use either a straight stitch or an overlock stitch and sew across all 4 layers of fabric to secure the gusset.
Next we want to sew both of the sides. This seam will run all the way from the wrist to the hips and can be done in one step. You'll be sewing across all four layers of fabric.
Using a basting stitch is highly recommended during this step to help keep seams aligned!
Everything is sewn and now we need to take the piece to the right side. Seam rip a 2-3" hole somewhere discrete, along an existing seam. Then take the entire suit to the right side. To finish it off, use a straight stitch or hand stitch an invisible stitch to close up the hole.
