Penny One Piece Written Directions
Choose Your Coverage
First you will need to decide which coverage option you will make, and cut the appropriate pieces. Please consult the initial instruction pages of your PDF file to see the "Pieces Included" and "Pattern Assembly" sections. If you are using the A0 file you will need to access the US Letter or A4 version to read this section.
Note that for ALL coverage options you will need to print out Piece 1, the back tie. There is just one piece for this, but you will end up needing to flip the pattern piece to account for the other side. If you'd like, you can print and assemble another copy of Piece 1 so you don't need to worry about cutting mirrored pieces.
Now that you have all your pieces we can begin cutting. For the front and back piece you will cut 2 in each pattern piece. If you'd like yours to be made reversible, pick out two different fabrics and cut one in each pattern piece in each fabric.
For the back tie, you will cut 4 mirrored pieces, which will account for the left and right side of the back. Again, you can cut 2 in each of your fabrics to make it reversible, just make sure you're flipping the pattern piece to get both sides.
Now we have all our pieces, and we’re first going to sew things up and attach our elastic.
Match every piece with right sides together, and sew and attach elastic to each of the following areas marked in the images below.
If you'd like, you can start off by doing a basting stitch (a long straight stitch with no backstitching) to tack these seams together before you sew your final stitch. This essentially replaces pinning, and it really helps to make sure everything is lined up.
Then you will use either an overlock stitch or a zig zag stitch, attaching elastic at the same time. If available, use an elastic foot. Do not stretch the elastic, you want it go sew on evenly (unless you prefer it to be scrunched).
If you don't have an elastic foot it may be easier to break this process into two steps- first sew the seam with your overlock or zig zag stitch, then come back over the seam a second time, this time sewing on the elastic.
For more information on how to sew elastic, click here. That video series will answer your most common elastic questions, and it includes demonstrations on how to sew it!
Put your front piece to the side, and bring out your back ties and your back bottom. First, take them each fully to the right side. Then, using a basting stitch sew down the shoulder, sides, and gusset. You should be sewing across two layers of fabric
This is not your final stitch, this step is done so that when you attach the front and back in the next step it is much easier. This is optional but highly recommended for the best finish!
Now bring your front piece back out. Your back pieces should still be right side out and your front piece still inside out. Starting off with each back tie, insert them inside the front piece and align them at the shoulder and the side. The loose ties on the back ties should be out of the way. Pin or clip into place. Repeat this with the back bottom, this time aligning the sides and gusset.
At this point your back pieces should be fully sandwiched inside the front. Sew down each of the marked seams. This time you will be sewing across 4 layers of fabric.
You can use an overlock stitch for this, or you can use a straight stitch and then trim the excess. Using a straight stitch and trimming tends to yield the least bulky result.
Now take your seam ripper and seam rip a 1-2" hole somewhere along an existing seam. Doing this close to the gusset is a great option, as this area is not easily seen when the swimsuit is worn. If you'd like, you can sew back over either side of where you seam rip in order to ensure the seam remains intact.
Through this hole, take the entire piece to the right side.
Your final step is to finish off this hole, you can use either a straight stitch on your machine or an invisible stitch by hand.
That completes the Penny One Piece!