Sarah One Piece Written Directions

The Sarah One Piece is a great basic. It sits high on the hips and features a dramatic but flattering v-neckline. It fits snugly along the waist, making it perfect for anyone trying to emphasize an hourglass shape.

Materials:

Sarah One Piece pattern
1/4" swimwear/rubber elastic
1 yard swimwear fabric (see where I buy my fabric here)
- This style is reversible, so regular swimwear fabric is used for both the self/outer fabric and the "lining".
Cutting tool like scissors or a rotary cutter
Seam ripper
Acrylic ruler (optional)

If you prefer video directions, you can watch below. Otherwise, keep reading!

Step 1

Cut your pattern out and tape it together.

Since torso sizes vary widely, it is recommended you use the lengthening/shortening line marked on the pattern if needed. I am 5'8" with a 61" torso and the size medium is designed as such.

Step 2

Cut each pattern piece according to these specifications:

**Seam allowance IS included, no need to leave extra

Piece 1 (Left bust): Cut 1 fabric, 1 lining

Piece 2 (Right bust): Cut 1 fabric, 1 lining

Piece 3 (Front bottom): Cut 1 fabric, 1 lining

Piece 4 (Back): Cut 1 fabric, 1 lining

Straps (Not included in pattern): Cut 2 fabric, 2 lining. Strap measurements are included inside the pattern.

For the rest of the tutorial, the lining will be called the “lining”, and the swimwear fabric “self”.

Step 3

Get your straps. You should have four strips cut, 2 in self, 2 in lining. We’re going to start by sewing the straps together. To do this, match them right sides together (lining with self) and sew along the long edges, attaching elastic to these same long edges only.

I use an elastic foot to attach my elastic, but if you don't have one you can break the process into two steps and first sew the fabric together and then go back and attach elastic. If you'd like to learn some more on how to sew elastic, you can watch the video series here.

I recommend using a 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch and regular polyester thread.

Once they’re sewn, take the straps to the right side.

Step 4

Next, get your bust pieces (pieces 1 & 2). Match the lining with the self, right sides together. Sew along the inner bust and the outer shoulder edges and add elastic.

The top, the side, and the bottom edges should all be left open.

Step 5

Now take your straps, and insert them inside the strap opening of the bust pieces. The bust pieces are still inside out, but the straps are right side out. When you insert them, this will make right sides are together. Pin down.

We will sew across this opening, sewing all four layers in one step. You may use an overlock stitch for this, but you can also use a straight stitch and trim the excess to help prevent bulk.

Once this is done, take each of the bust pieces back to the right side.

Step 6

Now get your front bottom pieces (piece 3). Match the lining and self, right sides together, then sew just along the leg holes. Attach elastic as well.

Step 7

We will next attach the cups to the front bottom, so that we have one complete front piece. To do this, insert your cups inside the front bottom, right sides together.

You can put one pin on each side of the cup, don’t worry about pinning the entire cup in, as you’ll need to stretch it as you sew in order for it to fit.

If you’re doing this correctly, your cups should be in between the two layers of the front bottom.

Sew across this line to sew the cups in, and stretch as needed in order to be able to sew in a straight line.

Again, make sure you’re sewing across four layers of fabric.

It might be easier to sew in one cup at a time, to ensure you’re fitting it correctly.

After you’ve sewn across, take the suit back to the right side through one of the open sides. Once again, we have a nice, clean finish that secures the lining to the self from the inside.

Step 8

Take your back pieces (piece 4) and match lining and self, right sides together. Just like last time, sew just along the leg holes, then go back and attach elastic.

Step 9

Next we want to attach the front piece to the back piece by sewing the gusset area.

To do this, insert the front piece inside of the back piece. The front piece should still be right side out, but the back piece still inside out. This way when you insert it, right sides are together.

Pin the layers together at the gusset, then sew straight across, across all four layers of fabric.

Once finished, take the suit back to the right side.

Step 10

This is where sewing across four layers can get tricky. Take this step slowly!

Lay your suit down as you would normally. You want to grab the bottom layer of fabric, which will be the self of the back piece. Take this layer of fabric and wrap it around to the front, matching right sides together and thus encasing the suit.

This process can be difficult to illustrate, so it may be easier if you navigate to 8:23 in the video tutorial and watch how it's done.

We now will sew the sides. Match up the four layers of fabric, and pin only at the top and the bottom of each of the sides.

We want to sew across these four layers of fabric, on both sides of the suit.

We’ll be stretching to fit as we sew again, so pins aren’t necessary except at the top and bottom edge. If you need to use them to make sure you’re sewing across all four layers, then try to pin while the fabric is stretched.

Sew the sides, taking your time to ensure all four layers are being sewn.

Step 11

You can now see that the only open seam is the top of the back, where our straps will be going.

While still inside out, pin down your straps where you want them to go, making sure they aren’t twisted and that right sides are together.

We’ll sew all across this open seam, sewing the straps as we go. For most of the seam, you’ll only be sewing across two layers of fabric, except where the straps are of course. You may choose to add elastic to this seam.

In between the straps, leave a 2” hole, which we will use to take the entire suit to the right side. If you prefer, you can put this hole somewhere else. You can seam rip a hole along any existing seam and it will have the same effect.

Step 12

Once the final seam is done, find the 2” hole and take the suit completely back to the right side. The final step is sewing this hole, which you can either do with an invisible stitch or a top stitch.

That completes this tutorial! This suit is one of my long time favorites, and I had a lot of fun experimenting with this method.

There are so many different ways to make a swimsuit, so if this method was confusing or you'd like to try a different one, try watching some of my other tutorials on one piece swimsuits so you can study all the many methods available!