Tess Skirt Written Directions

Materials

-Tess Skirt PDF Pattern

-1 yard of swimwear fabric

***This pattern is designed to be made with one layer of swimwear fabric. You may want to use two layers and make it reversible, or you may want to use a different fabric. If you choose to do this, just be aware that pattern adjustments may be necessary. At the very least we do recommend using a stretch fabric.

-Loop turner (or safety pin)

-Regular polyester thread

-Regular sewing machine

-Overlock machine (optional)

*Click here to find direct links to the tools mentioned, including machine recommendations!

Step 1

Assemble your pattern by following the instructions on the first few pages of your PDF file. Once your pattern is assembled, cut out the size you would like to make.

Step 2

Time to cut your pieces. On the pattern you will notice that there is a line that says "cut on fold". What this means is you will fold your fabric in half, then align your pattern so the "cut on fold" edge is aligned with the folded edge of your fabric. This will allow you to cut into two layers of fabric at once and create a symmetrical piece.

If you don't want to cut on the fold, you will print out two copies of the pattern, flip one piece over so it's mirrored, and then tape them together along the "cut on fold" lines.

Note that seam allowance is NOT included along the waistline and along the bottom edge. Depending on which way you choose to finish your skirt, you may want to add extra allowance. For some methods of finishing you may not need to. 

There is 1/2" seam allowance included on the sides, which will be used later on.

Don't forget you will also need to cut a drawstring. The measurements for this are included inside the PDF.


Step 3

During this step you will choose how you want to finish off the raw edges of the waistline and the bottom of the skirt. There are countless ways to do this, but in these directions we will go through 3 options. If you'd like a better visual on what each of these looks like, consult the video tutorial.

Option 1- serger rolled hem

If you own a serger, you can select a discrete 3-thread overlock stitch and serge right on top of the raw edges. If you choose to do this, it will look best with matching thread. You can also do a rolled hem or lettuce hem. Consult your machine guide for instructions on how to convert to this type of stitch.

Option 2- zig zag hem

You can also fold the fabric over once and sew it down into a traditional hem using a zig zag stitch.

*If you have a cover stitch machine, you can use a cover stitch to hem this as well

Option 3- leave it

Swimwear fabric does not fray, so one option is to leave it and not finish the edges.


Step 4

Now that your waistline and bottom edge are finished off, we can begin assembling the skirt.

First, fold the skirt in half with right sides together and align the two remaining raw edges.

Using a straight stitch, sew 1/2" inward from these raw edges. Pay close attention at the beginning and end of your seam, as this is where the skirt is attaching together and it may be noticeable if its misaligned. Once finished, DO NOT trim the excess, we will be using this for our drawstring channels.

After this step you will have a full skirt. If you'd like to test the sizing, now is a good time.


Step 5

The next objective is to create the drawstring channels using the 1/2" of allowance left over.

Lay each of the channels flat, then use a straight stitch to sew them each down. Depending on how wide you'd like your channels to be, you can modify how close or far you are from the center seam. We recommend starting with 1/4".


Step 6

Now it's time to finish the drawstring. Fold it in half lengthwise with right sides together, and sew along the raw edges.

If you have a serger, you can use an overlock stitch for this. If you have a regular sewing machine, use a zig zag stitch.

Elastic is not necessary.

Then, use a loop turner to take the drawstring to the right side.


Step 7

Time to thread the drawstring through the channels we made. Using a loop turner (or safety pin), thread your drawstring through both of the channels.


Step 8 (Optional)

To prevent the drawstring from twisting too much, you may decide to secure it into place. To do this, sew a straight stitch right on top of the channels and the string itself at the top of the skirt. Then trim the excess drawstring at the top.


And that completes the Tess Skirt!

If you have questions about sewing or construction, our Facebook group is a fantastic resource for new and experienced sewers alike. You can join here: https://facebook.com/groups/edgewaterave

Thanks for following along with this tutorial, happy sewing!