- Pins or clips
First you will need to decide which coverage option you will make, and cut the appropriate pieces. For cheeky coverage you'll cut Piece 1, 2 & 3. For full coverage you'll cut Pieces 1, 4 & 5.
Cut 2 in each of your pattern pieces, and cut 4 in your bust piece (Piece 1).
If you'd like yours to be made reversible, pick out two different fabrics and cut one in each pattern piece in each fabric
The bust pieces look best when you cut all 4 pieces the same color. This is optional but recommended for the best look. It's easiest to cut these by folding the fabric over and cutting two pieces at once, as shown.
Now we have all our pieces, and we’re first going to sew and attach elastic to our bottom pieces.
For the front and back pieces, match them with right sides together and sew and attach elastic to each of the following areas marked in the images below. Notice you will NOT sew the waistline of the back piece at this time.
You will use either an overlock stitch or a zig zag stitch for this, attaching elastic at this step. For more information on how to sew elastic, click here.
Moving on to your bust pieces, match them with right sides together and sew along every open edge except for the wide, short edge at the bottom. In this tutorial we did not use elastic, but you may choose to add it if you wish. Again, use an overlock stitch or a zig zag stitch.
Once you've sewn the bust pieces, take them fully to the right side using the open end we left. Then, using a basting stitch (a long straight stitch) sew closed the open end. This basting stitch is optional but will help us in the next step!
Now we want to attach in the bust pieces to the back piece. This is why we left the waistline open earlier, and why we took our bust pieces to the right side.
Insert your bust pieces inside the waistline, and align them about 1/2" (13mm) away from each of the side seams. It is optional but recommended that you angle the bust pieces, as this will help them face the direction they will be facing when worn and it will prevent any gaping. If you choose to do this, you want your excess facing the side seams, as shown. The amount of excess is up to you, but around 1.5" (38mm) is a great sweet spot to get the right angle.
You will ultimately want to sew and attach elastic to the entire waistline, at the same time securing in the bust pieces. However, don't be afraid to break this process up! You may choose to first tack down the bust pieces on one layer of fabric, then use a basting stitch to sew the waistline, and then move on to your final stitch with elastic. It's up to you!
Regardless of what method you choose, sew and attach elastic to the waistline using an overlock or zig zag stitch. If you're using a serger, use the serger knife to cut off the excess from the bust pieces. Otherwise, trim afterwards.
Now take the front piece back into the picture. We already sewed the elastic and now we can take the entire piece to the right side. Then, using a basting stitch sew down each of the sides and the gusset. This part is optional but it will make it easier to work with in the next step.
Now it's time to insert the front piece into the back piece and fully attach the suit. The bust pieces are still inside the back piece, so this may look tricky. Make sure the bust pieces are completely tucked inside the back piece before moving on.
Then, insert the front piece into the back piece, right sides together. Align each of the sides and the gusset, and pin. At this time everything should be sandwiched inside your back piece.
Then, using a straight stitch (or overlock) sew across both sides and the gusset. Trim the excess afterwards to get clean seams.
Now everything is attached and we now need to take the entire suit to the right side and finish it off.
To do this, seam rip a 1-2" hole somewhere along an existing seam. Then, through this hole take the entire suit to the right side.
Your final step is to finish off this hole, you can use either a straight stitch on your machine or an invisible stitch by hand.
That completes the Violet One Piece!